If you’re in Bangkok and your stomach’s rumbling for authentic street food, Silom Soi 20 is where you need to be. This short, bustling side street off Silom Road is a chaotic, delicious snapshot of the city’s food scene, blending Thai, Chinese, Muslim, and Indian influences. I’ve wandered through this market countless times—sometimes for a quick breakfast before work, other times for a late-night snack—and it never fails to deliver. From fragrant chicken biryani to fiery som tam, this guide is packed with my personal experiences and tips to help you navigate this street food haven like a local.
Why Silom Soi 20?
Silom Soi 20, also known as Soi Pandit, is a microcosm of Bangkok’s multiculturalism. Nestled in the heart of the Bangrak district, it’s surrounded by office towers, a mosque, the city’s largest Hindu temple (Sri Maha Mariamman), and even a Burmese community. The street’s food scene reflects this diversity, offering everything from Thai noodle soups to Muslim-style curries. I love how it’s less polished than touristy spots like Khao San Road but still welcoming for non-Thai speakers, with vendors often pointing to English menus or happily taking orders by gesture. It’s gritty, vibrant, and packed with flavors that hit you from every angle.
The street comes alive in the morning as a wet market with fresh produce and meat, but it’s the food stalls that draw the crowds, especially during lunch and early evening. Having spent months exploring Bangkok’s street food (like Yaowarat and Khao San, which you’ve mentioned before), I’d say Soi 20 stands out for its accessibility and variety. It’s perfect for foodies who want to dive into authentic Thai eats without needing a phrasebook.
Getting There
Silom Soi 20 is super easy to reach, which makes it a great stop after visiting nearby Lumphini Park or Soi Convent (both of which I’ve covered for you). Here’s how to get there:
- BTS Skytrain (Chong Nonsi Station): Exit #3, turn left onto Silom Road, and walk about 5–7 minutes until you see the Sri Maha Mariamman Temple. Soi 20 is right across the street. This is my go-to route since the BTS is quick and air-conditioned.
- MRT (Silom or Lumphini Stations): Both are a 10–15-minute walk. From Silom MRT, head west along Silom Road; from Lumphini, walk south and turn right onto Silom Road.
- Grab or Taxi: Just say “Silom Soi 20” or show the address (Thanon Silom Soi 20, Bangrak). It’s about 50–100 baht from central Bangkok. Have a map app ready to avoid confusion.
If you’re coming from Soi Convent, it’s a quick 5-minute walk west along Silom Road. Look for the temple’s colorful spire, and you’re there. The street is narrow, so watch for motorbikes zooming by!
Best Times to Visit
Timing is key to catching Soi 20 at its peak. Based on my visits, here’s the breakdown:
- Morning (6–9 AM): The morning market is my favorite time. Stalls are buzzing with fresh ingredients, and you’ll find breakfast classics like khao mok gai (chicken biryani) and noodle soups. It’s less crowded, and the air is cooler. I once grabbed a plate of pork rice at 7 AM and watched vendors set up—it’s a lively, local scene.
- Lunchtime (11 AM–2 PM): This is when office workers flood the street, making it hectic but fun. Stalls like Cheaper & Better Street Food are packed, and you’ll see Thais customizing their orders with chili and fish sauce. Arrive early to snag a seat.
- Evening (5–8 PM): Some stalls stay open for dinner, especially BBQ seafood vendors. The vibe is more relaxed, but many morning stalls sell out, so don’t expect the full spread. I’ve enjoyed fried prawns here at dusk with an iced Chang beer—perfect combo.
Avoid midday (2–4 PM) as many stalls close to restock, and the heat can be intense. The market shuts down by 9 PM, so plan accordingly.
Must-Try Street Food Stalls
Silom Soi 20’s food scene is a mix of Thai staples, Chinese-influenced dishes, and Muslim flavors, all served on wobbly steel tables or plastic chairs. Here are my top picks, based on my own meals and recent reviews:
1. Khao Mok Gai De (Thai Chicken Biryani)
This stall, right at the entrance of Soi 20 along Silom Road, is a morning must. Their khao mok gai (40 baht) is one of the best chicken biryanis I’ve had in Bangkok. The rice is fragrant with turmeric and curry spices, topped with a tender chicken leg, cucumber slices, and a sweet-spicy dipping sauce. I love the rhythmic clanging of the vendor’s spoon against the pot as she scoops out portions—it’s practically a performance! Recent reviews praise its fluffy rice and bold flavors, though it sells out by 9 AM, so get there early (Tue–Sun, 6–9 AM).
- Price: 40–50 baht
- Location: Left side of Soi 20 entrance, near Silom Road
2. Cheaper & Better Street Food
This stall is a gem for budget travelers, with most dishes around 50 baht. Their pad thai tom yum (60–100 baht) is a crowd favorite—tangy, spicy, and loaded with prawns. I tried their pork in oyster sauce once, and it was perfectly savory without being greasy. Reviews on Tripadvisor call it “cheap and incredible,” with locals and tourists loving the variety, from grilled prawns to morning glory stir-fry. It’s opposite the Hindu temple, making it easy to spot.
- Price: 50–100 baht
- Hours: 9 AM–8 PM
- Location: Soi 20, near Wat Prasri Maha
3. Uncle Nuad Thai Cuisine
A small, family-run spot seating about 20, Uncle Nuad’s is where I go for a sit-down meal with a local vibe. Their menu spans green curry, tom yum, basil squid, and BBQ pork with rice (60–100 baht). I took my friends here, and we couldn’t stop raving about the pork omelette—crispy outside, fluffy inside. Tripadvisor reviews highlight its fresh, varied dishes and the warm service from Uncle Nuad and his wife. It’s a bit pricier than carts but worth it for the quality.
- Price: 60–150 baht
- Hours: 10 AM–9 PM
- Location: Soi 20, No. 30, opposite Hindu temple
4. Noodle Soup Carts
Scattered along Soi 20, these mobile carts serve kuay tiao (noodle soup) with pork balls, fish cakes, or crispy pork (40–60 baht). I’m hooked on the clear, peppery broth, which you can customize with chili, fish sauce, or sugar (pro tip: follow the locals’ lead for the perfect mix). One morning, I watched a vendor toss in fresh bean sprouts and fish balls—simple but soul-warming. Reviews note the soups are clean and flavorful, though you might need to point at ingredients if there’s no English menu.
- Price: 40–60 baht
- Hours: Morning to early afternoon
- Location: Various spots along Soi 20
5. BBQ Seafood Stalls
In the evenings, seafood carts take over, grilling prawns, squid, and whole fish (100–200 baht). I once split a plate of fried shrimp with a friend, dipped in their pineapple-chili sauce—spicy but addictive! Talay Tord Sala Daeng, near Silom Complex, is a popular pick with fast-moving queues. Locals love the bite-sized portions, perfect for snacking on the go.
- Price: 100–200 baht
- Hours: 5–8 PM
- Location: Near Silom Complex or mid-Soi 20
6. Black Sticky Rice with Custard
At the corner of Silom Road, a lady sells khao neow dam sang kaya (black sticky rice with custard, 30–50 baht), a sweet treat my sweet-toothed friends swear by. The creamy custard pairs perfectly with the chewy rice. It’s a great dessert to grab while exploring the morning market.
- Price: 30–50 baht
- Hours: 6–9 AM
Beyond Food: Other Highlights
While food is the main draw, Soi 20 offers a few extras:Sri Maha Mariamman Temple: Across from Soi 20, this Dravidian-style Hindu temple is a cultural gem. I’ve popped in to admire its colorful spire and buy flower garlands from nearby stalls. It’s a serene contrast to the street’s chaos.
Morning Wet Market: From 6–9 AM, vendors sell fresh fruits, veggies, and meat. I’ve grabbed mangoes here for a post-meal snack—juicy and cheap at 20 baht.
Multicultural Vibe: The mosque in the middle of the soi and Indian music playing from carts create a unique atmosphere. I love people-watching here, from office workers to Tamil locals.
Practical Tips from My Visits
- Bring Cash: Most stalls are cash-only, so carry small bills (20–100 baht). ATMs are nearby on Silom Road.
- Dress for Heat: Bangkok’s humidity is relentless, so wear light clothes and comfy shoes. A hat helps for morning visits.
- Point and Order: Don’t speak Thai? No problem. Point at dishes or use Google Translate. Vendors are used to tourists.
- Check Hygiene: Stick to busy stalls with locals eating there—they’re usually safer. I’ve never gotten sick here, but choose freshly cooked food.
- Arrive Early: Morning stalls like Khao Mok Gai De sell out fast. Evening seafood vendors can run low by 8 PM.
- Explore Nearby: Pair your visit with Soi Convent’s upscale dining or Lumphini Park for a post-meal stroll, both just 5–10 minutes away.
Why Silom Soi 20 Steals My Heart
Silom Soi 20 isn’t just a food street—it’s a vibe. I’ve had some of my best Bangkok meals here, from a 40-baht biryani that outshone fancy restaurants to a late-night seafood feast with friends. The street’s mix of cultures, from the mosque’s call to prayer to the temple’s floral offerings, makes every visit feel like a mini-adventure. It’s less touristy than Yaowarat (which you loved for its seafood) but just as flavorful, with prices that won’t dent your wallet.If you’re in Bangkok, carve out a morning or evening for Soi 20. Bring an empty stomach and a sense of curiosity—you won’t leave disappointed. Got a favorite street food spot in Bangkok? Share it—I’m always hunting for the next great bite!
