When I first heard about Koh Ngai, tucked away in Thailand’s Andaman Sea, it sounded like a secret whispered among travelers who craved something off the beaten path. A tiny island in the Trang province, Koh Ngai (also called Koh Hai) promised turquoise waters, powdery beaches, and a kind of quiet that makes you forget the chaos of the world. After spending a week there last spring, I can say it delivered on every promise—and then some. Here’s my story of exploring this little slice of paradise, complete with sandy toes, sunset cocktails, and a few unexpected discoveries.
Getting There: The Journey to Serenity
My adventure to Koh Ngai began with a flight from Bangkok to Trang, the closest mainland airport. The early morning AirAsia flight was a steal, and by 9:30 AM, I was already at Trang Airport, buzzing with excitement. I’d read that getting to Koh Ngai could be tricky due to limited ferry schedules, so I was a bit nervous about the logistics. But Thailand has a way of making things work. Right outside the airport, a travel agent’s desk offered combined minivan and boat tickets to Koh Ngai for about 600 baht. The minivan whisked me to Pak Meng Pier in about an hour, where I had just enough time to grab a coconut from a beachside stall before hopping on a small ferry. The boat ride was another hour, slicing through the Andaman’s glassy waters, with limestone cliffs and distant islands teasing what was to come. By noon, I was stepping onto Koh Ngai’s main beach, and my heart skipped a beat.
Koh Ngai is tiny—barely 5 square kilometers—with no roads, no cars, and not even a single motorbike. It’s the kind of place where you feel like you’ve slipped into a postcard. The main beach, a 2-kilometer stretch of soft white sand lined with swaying palms, greeted me like an old friend. I could already tell this was going to be a place to slow down and soak it all in.
Where I Stayed: Thanya Beach Resort
I’d booked a bungalow at Thanya Beach Resort, drawn by reviews praising its beachfront views and infinity pool. When I arrived, I wasn’t disappointed. My wooden bungalow was perched on a slight hill, with a balcony overlooking the turquoise sea. The room was spacious, with a comfy bed, air conditioning, and a modern bathroom—though I’ll admit the furniture was a tad dated. But who cares about furniture when you wake up to a sunrise painting the sky in pinks and oranges? The resort’s beachfront was dotted with hammocks and swings, perfect for lazy afternoons with a book. Their Sea Breeze Bar served a Mai Tai that was so good I ordered it every night.
The staff at Thanya were warm and welcoming, always ready with a smile or a quick chat about the island. One evening, I got talking to a server named Noi, who shared stories about growing up in Trang and how Koh Ngai felt like a hidden gem even to locals. That kind of personal connection made the stay feel special, like I was a guest in someone’s home rather than a tourist.
One thing to note: Koh Ngai’s accommodations lean toward the pricier side for Thailand. My bungalow cost about 3,500 baht per night, which is steep compared to mainland spots like Krabi or Phuket. But the island’s seclusion and beauty made it worth every baht. If you’re on a tighter budget, I heard Koh Ngai Camping offers tents for around 900 baht a night, though you’ll sacrifice some comfort for the price.
The Beach Life: Sun, Sand, and Snorkeling
Koh Ngai’s main draw is its beach, and it’s every bit as stunning as the photos suggest. The sand is so soft it feels like walking on flour, and the water shifts from pale turquoise to deep indigo as it stretches toward the horizon. I spent my first morning just wandering the 4-kilometer stretch of the main beach, letting the warm waves lap at my feet. The beach is lined with resorts, but it never felt crowded—maybe because Koh Ngai is still less visited than heavyweights like Koh Phi Phi or Koh Lanta.
Snorkeling was the highlight of my days. The island’s offshore reef is teeming with life, and you don’t need a boat to reach it. I borrowed a mask and snorkel from my resort (most places rent them for a small fee) and waded into the shallows. Within minutes, I was swimming among schools of vibrant fish—parrotfish, clownfish, and even a shy moray eel peeking out from the coral. The water was so clear I could see every detail, and the reef felt like a secret underwater garden. For more serious divers, Koh Ngai has a dive center—Koh Hai Divers, run by a friendly German-Spanish couple, Britta and Beltran. I didn’t dive this time, but other guests raved about their trips to nearby dive sites.
One tip: check the tide schedules. At low tide, the water recedes quite a bit, exposing rocks and making swimming trickier. The resort staff were great about sharing daily tide updates, so I planned my snorkeling for high tide when the reef was fully accessible.
Exploring the Island: Kayaks and Jungle Paths
Koh Ngai isn’t the kind of place packed with activities, and that’s its charm. It forces you to slow down. But for those who, like me, get a little restless, there are ways to explore. One morning, I rented a kayak from my resort for 100 baht an hour and paddled along the coast. The view of the island from the water was unreal—lush green jungle spilling down to meet the white sand, with tiny islands dotting the horizon. I made it to Paradise Beach, a quieter cove with just one resort, and felt like I’d discovered my own private island. Kayaking around the whole island is doable in a few hours, but I stuck to a leisurely hour-long paddle.
Another day, I ventured into the jungle for a short hike to a viewpoint. The trail was steep and a bit sweaty, but the payoff was a panoramic view of the Andaman Sea, with Koh Ngai’s beaches stretching below like a ribbon of white. I brought my camera, and the photos I snapped from up there are still some of my favorites. Just pack water and bug spray—the mosquitoes can be relentless.
Island Hopping: Day Trips to Koh Mook and Koh Kradan
While Koh Ngai could easily keep you blissfully occupied, its location makes it a perfect base for island-hopping. I booked a longtail boat tour through my resort for about 1,500 baht, which took me to Koh Mook and Koh Kradan. The highlight was Koh Mook’s Emerald Cave, a hidden lagoon accessed by swimming through a dark, 80-meter tunnel. I’ll admit, I was nervous at first—swimming in the dark with only a guide’s flashlight felt intense—but emerging into a pristine beach surrounded by towering cliffs was pure magic. It’s one of those experiences that stays with you forever.
Koh Kradan was equally stunning, with even clearer waters and a reef that rivaled Koh Ngai’s. I spent a few hours snorkeling and lounging on its empty beaches, feeling like I’d stumbled into a deserted paradise. The longtail boat ride itself was a treat, cruising past limestone karsts and tiny islets with the sea breeze in my hair. If you’re visiting Koh Ngai, don’t skip these day trips—they’re a perfect way to see more of the Trang Islands’ beauty.
Food and Drinks: Island Flavors
Koh Ngai’s dining scene is small but satisfying. Most resorts have their own restaurants, and while prices are higher than on the mainland (expect to pay 150–300 baht for a dish), the food is fresh and flavorful. At Thanya’s restaurant, I devoured plates of spicy green curry and fresh seafood caught that day. The pad thai at Koh Ngai Seafood Resort was another standout, packed with plump prawns. For drinks, Coco Cottage’s beach bar became my go-to for pina coladas, especially at sunset when the sky turned into a canvas of oranges and purples.
One thing to keep in mind: there are no ATMs or convenience stores on Koh Ngai, so bring enough cash. I made the mistake of underestimating my spending and had to ration my baht toward the end of the trip. The minimart at one of the resorts charges triple what you’d pay on the mainland, so stock up on snacks in Trang if you’re a budget traveler.
The Vibe: A Place to Unplug
What struck me most about Koh Ngai was its vibe. This isn’t a party island—no loud bars or thumping music. It’s a place to unplug, where evenings are spent stargazing or sipping cocktails by the waves. I met solo travelers, couples, and even a few families, all drawn to the island’s tranquility. One night, I joined a sunset yoga class at Koh Ngai Divers for 400 baht. Doing downward dog with the sound of the sea was about as zen as it gets.
As a solo traveler, I never felt out of place. The island’s small size and laid-back atmosphere made it easy to strike up conversations with other guests or locals. But if you’re craving nightlife or constant action, Koh Ngai might feel too quiet. For me, it was exactly what I needed—a chance to recharge and reconnect with nature.
Practical Tips for Visiting Koh Ngai
- Best Time to Go: November to May for sunny skies and calm seas. I went in April and had perfect weather. The rainy season (June–October) can be hit-or-miss, with fewer boats and some resorts closed.
- Getting Around: No vehicles, just your feet or a longtail boat. The main beach is walkable, but high tide can make parts tricky.
- What to Pack: Snorkel gear, cash, sunscreen, and a good book. A waterproof backpack is handy for boat trips.
- Budget: Expect to spend more than on the mainland. Meals and accommodations are pricier, but the experience is worth it.
- Day Trips: Book through your resort or at Pak Meng Pier. A private longtail boat costs around 1,500–2,000 baht for a day.
Final Thoughts
Koh Ngai stole a piece of my heart. It’s not just the beaches or the snorkeling—it’s the feeling of being somewhere untouched, where time slows down and the world feels far away. I left with a tan, a camera full of photos, and a promise to myself to return. If you’re looking for a place to escape, to breathe, to marvel at the beauty of Thailand’s islands, Koh Ngai is calling your name. Just don’t tell too many people—it’s a secret worth keeping.
